We may generate revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. More information ›
If you were browsing through climbing magazines in the 90s and early aughts, you might have thought that helmets weren’t a thing in climbing. The epic photos of climbers posing on the edge of cliffs in climbing publications rarely featured a helmet. When climbers used to be marketed as rebellious iconoclasts looking for an adrenaline rush, helmets just didn’t seem to fit the image.
But with climbing being as widespread and popular as it is today, anything that promotes a safe, approachable and inclusive image of the sport is welcome and we’re starting to see a lot more helmets in those full-page climbing ads. It just makes sense to protect your head when you fall and are under cliffs while other people do the same. So I set out to test some of the latest and greatest climbing helmets and compile a list of favorites to keep your mom happy and your dome piece covered.
How I tested the best helmets
The most important tests that climbing helmets undergo are: meet the standards from the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) and the European Committee for Standardization (CEN) who are equipment certification bodies that ensure manufacturers don’t sell us duds. I’m not here to check their work or replicate their lab tests with a home setup. Instead, I tested these helmets by treating them as a climber would, while focusing on some of the features that set them apart.
I put each helmet in a full backpack, dropped the backpack on the ground three times, and then sat on the backpack for at least five minutes while it was full. I have unfortunately broken a few helmets this way in the past and I consider that to be standard wear and tear. I also took into account the fit, the amount of coverage the helmet provided on the sides and whether I could wear a buff or hat underneath. And finally, I took into account the appearance of the helmet, because trying to look cool is one of the most common reasons why people forego wearing a helmet, so if you look great while you ship, there is no excuse to leave him behind.
Best climbing helmets: reviews and recommendations
Best Overall: Petzl meteor
See it
Positives
- Well ventilated
- Can be used for ski touring and climbing
- Good side protection
- Looks sleek
Disadvantages
- The adjustment system makes it difficult to wear some hats
Main features
- Weight: 8.5 grams
- Clips for a headlight
- CE certified as a ski touring helmet
Petzl’s Meteor helmet has been a favorite in the climbing community for over a decade and the updated version builds on its previous popularity. This helmet offers a perfect balance between an everyday workhorse and a lightweight performance piece. I didn’t feel like it was too delicate when I put it in the backpack, but it is light enough that I didn’t think much about it when I carried it all day in the mountains or on the rock.
I appreciate the large vents in the helmet that provide airflow while still maintaining a good amount of coverage on the side of the head. If that wasn’t a needle hard enough to thread, the helmet looks sleek and stylish. Who knew safe choices could look so cool?
The only issue I had with this helmet was the plastic adjustment system in the back. The stiffness didn’t feel very comfortable with a few hats underneath, so I had to rethink my headgear choices. I found that the helmet worked best with a buff or hat made of thin and soft material to prevent pressure points.
As a bonus, this helmet is also CE certified for ski touring, making it a true all-rounder in the mountains. If you’re a climbing enthusiast who enjoys practicing all disciplines, look no further than the Meteor as your quiver killer, because this helmet will fit right in wherever you take it.
Best Lightweight: Black diamond vapor
See it
Positives
- Ultralight
- Well ventilated
- Looks super cool
Disadvantages
- Duration
- Sustainability is a concern
Main features
- Weight: 5.5 grams
- Clips for a headlight
When you wear the Black Diamond Vapor, it is better to fasten the chin strap so that it does not float away. The Vapor feels so light that it’s easy to forget you’re wearing a helmet while climbing. I was also impressed with how spacious and comfortable it was during all-day sessions. It was no problem getting a large hat under this helmet thanks to the soft cord adjustment system. The Vapor also provided the best ventilation of any other helmet and doesn’t skimp on protecting the side of the head to save weight – a common concern for me when considering ultralight helmets. Yes, the top of the head is the most likely place to hit a rock, but it’s also not impossible to smash the side of your head in a fall.
I was a little nervous when it came to putting this helmet in a backpack and throwing it around. I’ve broken a few of the previous versions of this helmet after being rough with them, so I was pleasantly surprised to see that this version didn’t crack. However, most gear billed as ultralight will lack some durability, and since this is a very expensive helmet, I might reserve it for more special occasions. But make no mistake: if you’re looking for a helmet to use during fast and light alpine blitzes or the burn of your project, the Black Diamond Vapor won’t weigh you down.
Dear borrower: Black diamond half dome
See it
Positives
- Lasts forever
- Easy to use and suitable for beginners
- Cheap
Disadvantages
- Heavy
- Other helmets look cooler
Main features
- Weight: 12.3 grams
- Clips for a headlight
- System for adjusting the dial
- Full plastic shell
If you like to climb with a helmet and like to climb with other people who wear helmets, it is good to have a sturdy helmet that you can lend. You may want to climb with someone new to the sport or with someone who doesn’t yet have a helmet. It makes it a lot easier to insist on safety if you can just hand them a helmet from the back of your car. The Black Diamond Half Dome is the perfect helmet for this.
The Half Dome has an all-plastic shell that makes it resistant to abuse. This means you don’t have to worry about how someone will handle it when you lend it out. This helmet is great for putting in a backpack, dropping it, sitting on it, or squishing it flat. I once dropped one from the top of a 75-foot cliff and when I retrieved it, it was completely fine. This strength makes helmets like the Half Dome a favorite among guiding services and youth climbing programs in their rental fleets.
I also appreciate the dial adjustment system on the back as it is more intuitive for newer climbers to use, resulting in a greater chance that they will wear the helmet properly. However, this bulky system isn’t suitable for thicker hats, so softer material feels better underneath. The sides of the head remain protected when putting on this helmet, but the weight and sturdy construction make it feel like you’re wearing a helmet all day.
Finally, you sacrifice style for functionality with the Half Dome. I think safety always looks cool, but with all the flashy helmets on the market today, I don’t think you’ll turn heads in this one.
Read next: Best Approach shoes of 2024, tested on trails and rocks
How to choose the best climbing helmet
There are a lot of helmets on the market today. Climbing is by no means the only sport that requires head protection. I’ve seen people on the crag with their bike helmets on and I’m sure the reasoning was, “One helmet is as good as the other.” To clear all this up, here are some things to consider when choosing a helmet.
Certification
Make sure your helmet is UIAA and CE certified. There are a few other certification bodies, but these two are the main ones that test products to ensure they are suitable for climbing. Every major climbing brand I know gets their equipment certified, so if you buy a climbing helmet from a reputable climbing brand, chances are it has been tested and certified. Other helmets designed for other sports have not been tested to these standards and thus are not acceptable stand-ins.
Also be wary of generic climbing gear that is sold cheaply and claims, “Made to the same specifications as ______ in the same factory.” The claim that they are made in the same factory may be true, but the cost savings often come from forgoing the certification and testing process.
Sustainability
Choose your helmet according to how you will use it. I tend to put some wear and tear on my gear when climbing, so I often opt for more durable products. However, that’s not everyone. One of my good friends used the same Vapor helmet for the three years it took me to crack two. He packed it carefully, being careful not to move his backpack around too much as he lay there.
Obviously it got a good life out of it, but if you plan on crushing and abusing your helmet, you might want to take the extra weight into account to ensure it lasts. So be very honest with yourself about how you handle your equipment and make your decisions based on that.
Bright colours
This isn’t just because you want it to match your outfits. I like to have a brightly colored helmet so that you are highly visible to the rest of your climbing party and in the event of a rescue attempt. It is clear that we never intend to be saved. but things happen out there. It makes it a lot easier for the good people who are putting their lives in danger to help in an emergency if they can spot you quickly. So even if you see yourself as a climbing ninja and wear all-black clothing, consider mixing it up and opting for a brightly colored helmet.
Final thoughts on the best climbing helmets
Your climbing ability comes from your head, so if you want to climb hard and smart, protect your noodle. Nowadays helmets are comfortable, light, airy and look cool, so there’s really no excuse to climb without one. Find a helmet you like and make it an everyday part of your climbing gear, even if it comes with a camera.
Sean McNally