How to Use Retinol Skin Care in Summer

Retinoids are a skincare hero for many reasons: they target fine lines, pigmentation, collagen production and acne. But you’ll often hear that retinoids shouldn’t be used before you plan to spend time in the sun, to protect your skin from a higher risk of sunburn and irritation that comes with retinoid use. But what if it’s summer and you plan to spend most days in the sun? Should you just cut out retinoids altogether?

HuffPost reached out to skincare experts to answer these and other questions about using retinoids in the summer.

You may notice that this part of the skincare world uses different yet similar-sounding terms, such as retinol, retinoids, and even retinal.

The vitamin A family is commonly called retinoids, and there are several of them strengths depending on your needs. The “pure” form, a prescription-only product, is called tretinoin, but if you’re looking for over-the-counter products, you can try retinaldehyde (or retinal), retinol, and retinyl palmitate (or retinyl ester). Retinoid strengths are like a pyramid and their potency depends on how “far” they are from the pure form (retinoic acid). The milder forms may work slower than the others, but are also less irritating.

“It is recommended to start at a lower concentration and frequency when using retinol products so that the skin can gradually adapt,” says Dr. Rahi Sarbaziha, a board-certified practitioner of integrative aesthetics in Beverly Hills. “It is advisable to apply the cream once a week in the evening,” she added.

Learn more, read our full guide to the difference between all these terms.

“Many people believe that it is in their best interest to stop using retinoids during the summer months. This is a misconception,” the spokesperson said Jan Marinia beautician and founder of Jan Marini Skin research.

Marini explained that sun sensitivity occurs when a substance interacts with UV light at any temperature and causes severe burns – one of those substances is oral medications from the tetracycline family. “This is not the case with prescription retinoids (tretinoin) or over-the-counter retinol,” Marini said. Retinoids can even help the skin heal from sun damage or other wounds several studiesMarini explained. Retinol does not react with the sun and cause burns or damage.

“It’s a myth that retinoids should be stopped in the summer, but you should be aware of this increased risk and have a strategy to avoid it,” says Dr. Kristen Molenaara board-certified dermatologist Spectrum skin and laser.

The idea that you should stop using retinoids in the summer “is a total myth,” agreed Dr. Fadi Haddada cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Kayle aesthetic clinic. “You can benefit from using retinoids every day all year round, but the effect it has on your skin is determined by the strength of the retinoids and the frequency of use,” he added.

Haddad explained that research shows there is no phototoxicity with retinoids, “meaning they do not react with sunlight and cause burns on the skin. The reason SPF is recommended is because the younger, plump skin cells that become visible during cell turnover are fragile and susceptible to sun damage, so they need to be protected from UV.

“Unless you have an underlying medical condition or are taking other medications that increase your sensitivity to the sun, retinoids are generally safe to use in the summer months when applied properly,” Miller said.

Of course, be extra diligent with your daily sunscreen Applying and reapplying is important – but you should be doing it all year round.

“If your skin is already accustomed to the use, which is likely to be the case after about six months, your skin’s sensitivity will likely return to baseline levels,” says Charlene Valledor, a product developer, co-founder and group chairman of SOS Beauty. Valledro agreed that for seasoned retinoid users, who take sun exposure and sunscreen into account, there is no reason to stop during the summer holidays.

This is where you need to rethink your routine: every person’s skin and resilience to retinoids is different, so it’s best to consult your doctor. But in general, if you are in direct sun most of the summer, you may want to change the frequency of use.

“Depending on how resilient your skin is to retinoids and how much sun exposure you get, you may want to change the cycle with a few more ‘rest and recovery days’ between your retinoid nights,” Sarbaziha said. For example, instead of applying your retinoid every other night, you can stretch it out to every three nights.

“Reducing the strength of your topical retinoid or switching to a less potent retinol product may be one way to reduce your risk of sensitivity and sunburn,” Miller suggested.

Sarbaziha recommended using extra sun protection on vacation, such as an SPF 70. “Do not use retinoids if you are sunburned as this can lead to spots and discoloration,” she added.

Irritation and drought, or even the dreaded “retinol uglies,” are common when first introducing a vitamin A product. According to the experts, there is a formula and frequency that is suitable for everyone.

As for skin type, Marini explained that unless someone is allergic to a particular formula, everyone can use a retinoid. “The most important thing is that you have a skincare routine that is tailored to your skin type. For example, if you are dry, use products from that category and if you are oily, use products from that category as well. Then just add a retinoid to your routine at night,” Marini said.

Called Sarbaziha that retinoids should only be used at night, regardless of the season. And if you are planning to become pregnant, are currently pregnant, or are breastfeeding, you should not use a retinoid at all.

For certain skin conditions, you need to be extra careful when introducing a retinoid. “Those with melasma, who may have been prescribed active agents such as AHAs and hydroquinone, should exercise caution, as irritated skin, if not properly protected from the sun, can worsen the existing condition,” Haddad said.

“In general, retinol works equally on all skin tones, but the more powerful forms, such as prescription products, can damage the skin if not used correctly,” explains Haddad. “Dark skin tones can be prone to irritation caused by high-intensity skincare ingredients, such as vitamin A derivatives, which can lead to hyperpigmentation.” He recommended talking to a doctor before taking strong active ingredients.

Starting with a lower dosage is key for all skin types to minimize irritation, Sarbaziha said. “There are no problems with using retinol on dark skin tones, but it is important to start at a low level and build up slowly.”

Miller agreed: “Retinol products, when applied properly, are generally safe to use on darker skin tones.

The general consensus is that if you use retinoids year-round and are diligent with your sun care, you can continue using them. If you plan to spend an extended period of time outdoors (such as a beach trip) and want to be on the safe side, you may want to stop using them for a few days before and after your trip. But even on a beach trip, it’s all about your skin, its sensitivity and resilience, as Sarbaziha explained.