What distance should be used to pattern a shotgun?

In the world of hunting rifles, there are some big topics of disagreement: lead, choke selection, gun fit, and shot size selection to name a few. But a surprisingly controversial topic is the subject of pattern formation. This is because there are different distances and techniques for shaping a shotgun.

Here we will try to cut through the controversy and break down three different pattern formation processes and their applications.

1. Pattern formation for waterfowl and upland birds
2. Pattern formation for clay target games
3. Patterns for turkeys and coyotes

What does the cartridge of a shotgun mean?

Simply put, shotgun shaping is the analysis of a given shotgun’s array of pellets, a choke, and a charge on a target. For most situations, a distance of 40 yards should be used to model a shotgun.

Pattern analysis versus point of impact

It is important to distinguish between pattern analysis and evaluating the point of impact. When we discuss the pattern of a shotgun, we are looking at the density and evenness of bullet strikes from a given range.

When we talk about point of impact, we’re evaluating where the core of that pattern hits, relative to our point of aim.

What makes a good pattern?

In general, we want to see a dense volume of pellets in the core of the pattern, naturally thinning as they move towards the edges. A good pattern will not have large gaps or gaps between the pellets.

Many people chirp about the number of pellets while patterning and spend hours at the pattern board counting holes. It is common to count the number of pellet strikes within a 30-inch diameter circle for waterfowl and upland rigs and a 10-inch diameter circle for turkey platforms.

What you need to model a shotgun

For any pattern work, you will need to photograph a sheet of paper or swatch at least 48 by 48 inches with a target point in the center. If you are shooting lead or bismuth ammunition, you can use a steel cartridge board, but if you are shooting steel pellets, be sure to use paper to prevent ricochet.

How to make a pattern for ducks and upland birds

Because we most often photograph ducks and mountain birds from a standing position, we also want to make patterns from a standing position. But we also want to photograph accurately.

I recommend shooting with sticks or a tripod. This way you can get a proper stance, a solid rifle rest, a weld on the cheeks, and a consistent sight picture, plus a solid rest for accurate shooting. This gives you a good basis from which you can work. I recheck my pattern results with a handheld photo at my ideal engagement distance.

But what distance should be used for patterning a hunting rifle for upland birds and waterfowl? That depends on how far you typically shoot ducks and pheasants. While there are many theories and opinions about this, we are going to focus on a distance of 40 yards for our kill zone, but also go to 50 yards. For most of us, a 40-yard shot at a game bird should be considered a long shot.

For this one we want to use a circle with a diameter of 70 cm and a dot in the center as a target point. Make a good, clean recording and then follow these steps.

1. Evaluate the impact point in relation to the target point. We want to see the core of the pattern hit where we were aiming, or just a little high. Some hunters like a 60/40 pattern (meaning about 60 percent of bullet strikes hit even at or above the point of aim).
2. Evaluate pellet attack density. In general, for medium-sized game birds, we want to see about 100 to 120 pellet strikes in a 2-foot circle. For large feathered game we want to see about 80 to 100 strokes in a 70 cm circle. Keep in mind that these numbers represent a bit of an inverse sliding scale as the shot size changes. All things being equal, the larger the pellet size, the fewer pellets you place in the 70cm circle. In general, the larger the animal, the larger the pellet size.
3. Take a photo of your target.
4. Shoot again with the same setup. Compare your results. If they were consistent, take a photo of target number two and shoot again. However, if your two targets were drastically different, reevaluate your shooting setup, rest, stance, trigger pressure, etc.
5. Shoot standing, handheld. Shoot as you would in a hunting scenario to confirm your results.

If your point of impact was consistently off in the above exercise, evaluate things like the fit of your weapon and the alignment of your eyes. It is possible to change the point of impact by adjusting the shims and cast of a shotgun. If your cartridge looks too sparse or too dense, you can experiment with different choke and load combinations until you find one that shoots consistent cartridges from your gun.

Read next: Best chokes for duck hunting

Pattern Drawing for Clay Games

Similar to the procedure for hunting birds, we start standing. I want to start shooting sticks to eliminate as much human error as possible.

For all three main clay games, I like to start at 40 yards. If I’m looking for a handicap kick or sporting clays pattern, I’ll also extend this to 50 yards and maybe 60, to get an idea of ​​what my load/choke combination is doing at those distances. Skeet is primarily a sub-40 yard game, so I stick close to that distance when I make patterns for that discipline.

We follow the same shooting protocol as above. We will still assess pattern density and look for consistency in the point of impact. But depending on the individual discipline, the pattern goals differ slightly. So, what are we looking for?

Fall: 70/30 or 80/20

We want to see a higher percentage of pellets above our target point because the trap targets typically engage while the bird is still ascending in its flight path.

Skeet: 60/40 or 50/50

With clay targets, the targets rise, cross/maintain height or fall, so a pattern that more closely matches the aim point is ideal.

Sporting clay: 50/50

We continue the trend of fair distribution for sporting clays. Due to the enormous diversity of target presentations, a 50/50 ratio is usually a good goal.

In my next story, I’ll go into more detail about how to align your goal and impact points to achieve your pattern goals.

Read next: Trap Shooting, A Beginner’s Guide

Patterning for turkey hunting, varmints and small game

Since most turkey hunting shots will be from a sitting position, this is how we will handle the pattern.

For turkey patterns, I like to put my distances in brackets. What I mean by that is choosing what I think will be my ideal harvest range and pattern, both at that range and either side of about 10 yards. For example, if I expect my ideal range to be 30 yards, I would use a pattern at 20, 30, and 40 yards to have solid data. The standard for evaluating turkey targets is to count the number of pellet strikes within a 10-inch circle above the core of the pattern. For consistent kills, you’ll want to place at least 100 pellet attacks within that 10-inch circle, centered above the gobbler’s neck. If your gun/choke/load combination can’t do this at a certain distance, then you know that specific distance is outside your effective range. A 12 gauge turkey rifle with a turkey specific choke and TSS loads should put at least 100 pellets on the target at 50 yards. So when shooting with this type of setup, it makes sense to shoot at 40, 50, and 60 yards. If you are shooting under gauge or lead loads, it is wise to pattern at 20, 30 and 40 yards.

There are several turkey targets available, which are great for getting a visual representation of how your pattern can affect a turkey. But you’ll still want to photograph on a larger sheet of paper to get a good understanding of your pattern. So when you shoot a turkey target, staple it to a larger sheet of paper (48 inches by 48 inches is ideal).

Now that we’ve determined our goal and distance, follow these steps.

1. You shoot your hunting ammunition from a comfortable sitting position with a sturdy support. Aim for the turkey’s neck, not its head. (Read our guide on where to shoot a turkey).
2. Shoot closer first.
3. Rate your pattern. Don’t worry about counting your pellets in your small circle yet, but do look at the concentration of the pellets and their relationship to your aiming point. If you’re not sure yet, we need to make some adjustments. If you are shooting with a red dot sight or an adjustable open sight, simply aim it as you would with a rifle. When shooting with a bead, you may need to adjust your aim point to get on target.
4. Now, with our sights or aiming point turned in, let’s determine our distances. Shoot three times (three different targets) at each distance.
5. Evaluate your objectives at each range. If you see a dense amount of pellets hitting all of the turkey’s targets, you’re good to go. If not, you’ll need to reduce your maximum range or adjust your load/choke combination (and possibly some more practice with your turkey gun).
6. Take one last shot at 10 yards. This will give you an idea of ​​how tight your pattern is up close.

The patterning process for pests and solid small game is basically the same. Of course, you’ll adjust your ammo, choke, and gauge selection.

Final thoughts on shotgun cartridge

Patterning can be as simple or as complex as you want. With a basic protocol you can determine where your point of impact is in relation to your point of aim. You will also know how close the pattern your gun/charge/choke combination will generate to your maximum effective range. If you stay within that range, you can cleanly kill more birds. You can choose to stop there and go with the knowledge you have. Or you can delve into the matrix of variables and what-ifs to refine your impact point and pattern.